TS 


Agric.- Forestry.  Main  Library 


.- Forestry.  Main  Library 


Band  Saw 

A  GUIDE  BOOK 

for 
Filers,  Sawyers  and  Woodworkers 


Price  $1.00 

COMPILED    BY 

Simonds  Manufacturing  Co. 

"The  Saw  Makers"  Established  1832 

Fitchburg,  Mass. 
Five  Factories  Twelve  Branches 

Copyright  1921  by  Simonds  Mfg.  Co. 


INTRODUCTION 

A  S  a  result  of  numerous  inquiries  and  requests  for 
•^""^  information  which  have  been  received,  the  Simonds 
Manufacturing  Company  some  time  ago  concluded  to 
issue  a  series  of  booklets  covering  the  manufacture,  care  and 
use  of  Circular  Saws,  Band  Saws  and  Machine  Knives. 
The  first  named  book,  The  Circular  Saw  has  been 
published.  It  met  with  popular  favor  and  appears  to  be 
appreciated  by  users  of  circular  saws.  We  hope  The 
Band  Saw  which  we  herewith  present  for  your  considera- 
tion will  prove  as  satisfactory  as  its  companion  work  and 
that  it  may  contain  information  which  will  be  available 
for  use  in  the  great  woodworking  industry  all  over  the 
world,  where  Simonds  Saws  hold  such  an  enviable  place. 

In  presenting  The  Band  Saw  it  has  been  our  endeavor 
to  set  forth  accurate  data,  the  greater  part  of  which  is 
founded  on  information  which  has  been  compiled  and 
which  we  accumulated  from  our  store  of  records  and 
actual  experience  of  eighty-nine  years  as  makers  of  steel 
cutting  edges. 

While  we  do  not  wish  to  convey  the  impression  that  we 
are  super-authority  on  the  subject  of  handling  saws,  we  do 
say  that  the  information  we  herein  offer  is  considered 
most  authentic.  We  have  avoided  expression  of  opinions 
by  individuals  or  organizations,  and  have  grouped  ideas 
from  experienced  sawyers,  filers  and  millmen  in  every  sec- 
tion, to  which  we  have  added  our  own  expert  knowledge 
gained  as  saw  makers.  It  has  been  the  endeavor  of  the 
Simonds  Manufacturing  Company,  since  it  first  commenced 
to  make  saws,  to  keep  in  constant  touch  with  those  who  use 
saws,  and  as  a  result  we  have  become  familiar  with  many 
of  the  troubles  incidental  to  their  use. 

We  therefore  offer  The  Band  Saw  for  your  approval 
in  the  belief  that  it  may  be  of  service  to  the  sawyer,  filer  or 
millman,  who  is  constantly  seeking  accurate  information 
which  will  tend  to  improve  his  business. 

3 


The  Band  Saw 

Page 

INTRODUCTION  3 

CHAPTER  I       Superiority  of  the  Band  Saw  5 

CHAPTER  2       Band  Saw  Steel  10 

CHAPTER  3       Making  a  Band  Saw  12 

CHAPTER  4       Rolling  and  Tensioning  Wide  Band  Saws  14 

CHAPTER  5       Leveling  a  Band  Saw  26 

CHAPTER  6       Brazing  a  Band  Saw  31 

CHAPTER  7       How  to  Tension  a  Band  Saw  33 

CHAPTER  8       Band  Saw  Speed  and  Strain  39 

CHAPTER  9       Band  Saw  Mills  42 

CHAPTER  10     Fitting  and  Running  Small  Band  Saws  45 

CHAPTER   n      "Safety  First"  with  Small  Band  Saws  51 


Superiority  of  the  Band  Saw 

For  years  the  problem  which  confronted  sawmakers  was 
how  to  reduce  the  time  and  power  consumed,  as  well  as  the 
waste  in  sawdust,  in  converting  logs  into  boards.  Event- 
ually the  perfection  of  the  band  saw  proved  to  be  the 
solution. 

The  Saw.  William  Newberry  of  London,  England, 
patented  the  first  endless  band  saw  in  1808,  although  his 
machine  was  never  developed  further  than  the  model  sub- 
mitted to  the  Patent  Office.  The  great  difficulty  in  making 
a  smooth,  strong  joint  in  the  steel  band  was  a  stumbling- 
block  which  arrested  practical  development  until  New- 
berry's  time. 

The  old  difficulty  in  joining  the  blade  so  it  would  run 
over  the  wheels  without  breaking  was  not  overcome  until 
nearly  forty  years  after  Newberry  gave  this  type  of  saw  to 
the  world. 

The  Steel.  When  one  considers  that  the  modern  band 
saw  travels  at  the  speed  of  about  one  and  one-half  miles 
per  minute — or  faster  than  the  fastest  express  train — that 
in  connection  with  its  width  it  is  extraordinarily  thin,  one 
will  have  some  idea  of  the  strain  to  which  it  is  subjected, 
and  a  better  conception  of  the  wonderful  quality  of  the 
steel  that  has  made  the  production  of  these  saws  possible. 

The  band  saw  which  remains  today  in  practically  the 
same  form  as  when  invented  is  still  the  last  word  in  saw 
efficiency.  It  is  in  the  perfection  of  a  suitable  steel  to 
withstand  the  successive  bending  and  straightening  while 
in  operation,  the  making  of  a  proper  joint  or  "braze,"  and 
the  improvement  in  the  form  of  the  teeth  that  modern 
advances  have  been  made. 


Jt  js(hardjy  safe  to  predicVwhat  may  be  developed  in  the 
\tf£y  i$ j'nip^cjveikQitt?.  to^  the  saws  as  at  present  manufac- 
tured, but  it  is  difficult  Yo'cohceive  of  anything  which  will 
surpass  the  material,  construction,  and  operation  of  the 
band  saw  as  now  used. 

Widths.  Wide  band  saws  which  today  range  in  size 
up  to  18  inches  in  width,  are  familiar  to  almost  everyone. 
They  consist  of  an  endless  band,  or  ribbon  of  steel,  usually 
toothed  on  one  side.  They  are  also  made  with  both 
edges  toothed.  This  is  usually  done  in  the  case  of  large 
band  saws,  although  double-edge  band  saws  are  sometimes 
made  in  width  as  narrow  as  8  inches. 

The  early  log  machines  used  quite  narrow  saws,  3  inches 
to  5  inches  wide,  but  owing  to  the  fact  that  by  using~~wider 
saws  a  faster  rate  of  cutting  could  be  obtained,  and  that 
there  are  a  number  of  experienced  men  who  understand 
their  treatment,  a  very  much  wider  saw  than  was  formerly 
the  case,  has  come  into  use. 

The  Wheel.  The  band  saw  is  run  over  two  wheels,  or 
pulleys,  which,  in  the  case  of  perpendicular  band  saw 
machines,  are  set  one  above  the  other,  and  spaced  some 
distance  apart. 

Thin  Blades.  The  band  saw  has  superseded  the  cir- 
cular saw  in  several  lines  of  work.  It  has  many  advantages 
over  the  circular  saw — especially  in  that  class  of  sawing 
where  its  very  thin  blade  makes  it  desirable.  Band  saws 
from  2  to  8  inches  in  width,  are  extensively  used  for  ripping 
and  resawing,  for,  compared  with  the  circular  saw,  they 
save  kerf,  time,  and  power. 

This  leads  us  to  the  consideration  of  the  band  saw  as 
related  to  the  sawmill.  Before  its  introduction  there  was 
a  limit  in  size  of  timber  which  could  be  sawn  by  circular 
saws,  which  could  cut  only  logs  of  a  size  slightly  less  than 
half  the  diameter  of  the  saw.  The  size  of  the  saw  itself  was 


also  limited;  difficulties  of  management  and  running  arose 
as  soon  as  the  saw  diameter  was  increased  beyond  a  certain 
point. 

Double  Mills.  Double  mills  were  used  to  a  great 
extent  in  regions  where  large  timber  was  being  cut.  By 
this  arrangement,  which  consisted  of  two  circular  saws, 
one  above  the  other,  logs  of  an  ordinary  size  were  sawn 
with  the  larger  or  "main'-'  circular  saw,  while  the  smaller, 
or  "Top  Saw,"  was  brought  into  action  when  a  log  ex- 
ceeded the  capacity  of  the  main  saw.  The  band  saw 
obviated  all  this,  for  there  is  practically  no  limit  to  the  size 
of  logs  which  can  be  cut  by  band  saws. 

In  large  band  mills,  as  a  rule,  the  work  is  brought  to  the 
saw  upon  a  carriage  driven  by  feeding  devices  independent 
of  the  saw. 

Continuous  Cutting.  Compared  with  the  recipro- 
cating saws  formerly  used  in  sawmills,  such  as  mill,  gang, 
etc.,  the  band  saw  has  the  advantage  of  steady  and  con- 
tinuous cutting  action,  no  time  being  lost  in  return  stroke. 
However,  gangs  of  reciprocating  saws,  by  reason  of  their 
ability  to  cut  as  many  as  30  boards  at  one  time,  are  still 
retained  in  numbers  of  large  mills  as  an  adjunct  to  the 
bands. 

When  one  considers  the  value  of  every  -f§  inch  saved 
in  kerf  in  the  course  of  a  day's  sawing  of  several  hundred 
thousand  feet,  the  great  economy  in  using  the  thin  blade 
band  saw  can  be  more  fully  appreciated. 

Large  Bands.  Large  band  saws  for  log  sawing  range 
from  8  to  18  inches  in  width.  The  general  width  for  single- 
edged  bands,  i.e.,  toothed  on  one  edge,  is  12  inches,  while 
double-edged  band  saws  are  made  in  a  variety  of  sizes. 
The  majority  of  these  latter,  however,  are  about  14  inches 
in  width,  although,  as  previously  stated,  some  few  are  made 
as  narrow  as  8  inches. 


The  length  of  the  standard  log  band  saw  varies,  according 
to  size  and  make  of  mill,  from  40  to  60  feet. 

Double-edged  band  saws  are  now  used  frequently  and 
the  log  can  be  cut  as  it  moves  in  both  directions. 

The  swage  set  is  principally  used  on  log  bands  and 
resaws.  Swaging  the  teeth  consists  of  spreading  or 
widening  the  cutting  edge  of  each  tooth  so  that  it  extends 
slightly  beyond  each  side  of  the  blade,  giving  clearance  to 
the  body  of  the  saw  while  cutting.  Sufficient  clearance 
prevents  friction  and  insures  free  running. 

Then,  too,  with  the  swage  tooth  both  corners  of  the  tooth 
cut,  consequently  it  will  not  only  do  twice  as  much  work  as 
a  spring-set  tooth,  which  merely  cuts  half  a  kerf,  but  in 
addition  it  will  stand  more  feed,  thus  greatly  increasing 
the  capacity  of  the  mill. 

The  band  resaw  which  is  now  extensively  used  has  been 
successfully  operated  in  gangs.  There  are  mills  in  the 
United  States  and  Canada  using  gangs  containing  two  or 
more  machines. 

The  Hand.  The  experienced  sawyer  or  mill  man  is 
familiar  with  the  "hand"  of  a  band  saw,  but  for  the  benefit 
of  the  beginner  it  may  be  stated  that  a  saw  is  either  right 
or  left  hand.  As  you  stand  facing  the  mill  with  the  teeth 
of  the  saw  toward  you,  if  the  log  passes  on  the  right  hand 
side,  it  is  a  right  hand  saw;  if  it  passes  on  the  left  of  the 
saw  it  is  a  left  hand  saw. 

Narrow  Bands.  Band  saws  adapted  for  certain  kinds 
of  cutting  are  known  as  Narrow  and  Wide.  Machines  on 
which  are  working  saws  J/g  inch  up  to  i%  inch  are  desig- 
nated as  narrow  bands.  These  are  used  extensively  in 
mills,  cooperage  shops,  furniture  factories  and  other  wood- 
working establishments,  for  a  great  variety  of  purposes. 
They  are  employed  to  cut  in  addition  to  wood,  slate, 
fiber-board,  paper,  bone,  meat,  hard  rubber,  ivory,  asbestos 

8 


magnesia,  horn,  amber,  cloth,  bronze,  brass,  copper, 
aluminum,  nickel,  iron,  steel,  carbon,  ice,  celluloid,  talc, 
camphor,  mica,  pearl,  shell  and  cardboard. 

In  using  small  band  saws,  the  work  rests  upon  a  table, 
through  the  center  of  which  the  saw  passes,  the  work  being 
fed  by  hand. 

For  general  work,  the  blades  are  made  as  narrow  as  J/g 
inch  and  from  that  are  graduated  up  by  eighths  to  I  finches, 
saws  up  to  this  width  being  considered  "Narrow  Band 
Saws."  The  length  is  usually  18  feet,  or  longer  according 
to  the  size  of  the  machine  on  which  they  are  used. 

Cutting  Circles.  The  fact  that  with  a  narrow  band 
saw,  circles  or  other  curved  lines  can  be  cut  in  any  desired 
direction,  makes  it  available  for  use  in  cutting  intricate  and 
ornamental  patterns.  Where  formerly  scroll  sawing  was 
done  entirely  by  the  reciprocating  type — web  or  scroll 
saws,  working  up  and  down,  and  compass  saws — now  the 
narrow  band  saw  is  being  widely  used  with  excellent  and 
greater  results.  Its  downward  motion  carries  the  sawdust 
away  without  the  aid  of  a  blower,  leaving  the  lines  drawn 
on  the  work  perfectly  clean  to  the  operator. 

It  is  understood,  of  course,  that  band  saws  can  be  used 
in  this  connection  only  in  cases  where  the  pattern  is  begun 
on  the  edge  of  the  stock,  for  interior  designs  it  is  necessary 
to  use  a  reciprocating  saw  (jig  saw),  the  end  of  which  can 
be  passed  through  the  interior  of  the  pattern. 

Small,  narrow  band  saws  are  fitted  with  spring-set. 
With  the  spring-set  the  point  of  one  tooth  is  bent  to  the 
right  and  the  next  to  the  left,  and  so  on  alternately  through- 
out the  length  of  the  saw.  This  effects  the  necessary 
clearance. 


CHAPTER  II 

Making  Band  Saw  Steel 

Strength.  When  one  considers  that  a  band  saw  is 
subject  to  terrific  strain,  due  to  the  high  speed  under  which 
!t  is  operated,  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  steel  which  com- 
poses the  band  must  be  of  exceptional  quality.  Otherwise 
the  saw  is  of  little  value.  A  50  foot  band  saw  operating  at 
the  rate  of  11,000  feet  per  minute  bends  440  times.  This 
is  a  severe  test  of  steel.  The  molecules  undergo  a  constant 
change,  shifting  and  reshaping  themselves  as  the  saw  goes 
on  and  off  the  wheel,  and  upon  the  ductility,  uniformity 
and  tensile  strength  of  these  molecules  depends  the  life 
and  power  of  the  saw. 

Alloys.  In  the  manufacture  of  steel  for  Simonds  band 
saws  only  high  grade  alloys  are  used.  It  requires  a  high 
prcentage  of  new  iron  together  with  such  alloys  as  will 
give  the  greatest  toughness  and  keenness  to  the  cutting 
edge.  Steel  experts  have  proven  that  nickel  gives  to  cer- 
tain steel  a  toughness  not  obtained  by  any  other  alloy. 
It  has  been  found  by  the  makers  of  Simonds  band  saws  that 
the  resistance  required  in  these  saws  can  best  be  obtained  by 
the  liberal  use  of  nickel  alloy.  While  it  adds  to  the  cost  per 
pound  of  the  steel,  the  results  obtained  warrant  the  extra 
expenditure. 

Band  sawr  steel  must  be  absolutely  free  from  blow-holes, 
pipes,  seams,  splits  and  other  defects,  and  that  is  why 
particular  care  must  be  taken  in  its  making.  It  must  be 
uniform  in  hardness.  Because  of  the  necessity  fora  special 
high-grade  saw  steel  Simonds  Manufacturing  Company 
some  years  ago  established  its  own  steel  mills  which  are  now 
maintained  at  Lockport,  N.  Y. 

Care  in  Making.  In  order  that  the  reader  may 
properly  follow  the  numerous  operations,  and  realize  the 


infinite  care  necessary  in  making  a  band  saw  it  is  necessary 
that  one  turn  attention  to  the  heart  of  the  steel  works.  In 
the  Simonds  Steel  Mills,  under  the  most  modern  methods, 
the  first  step  toward  the  finished  product  is  taken. 

Crucible  Steel.  The  foundation  of  Simonds  band 
saws  being  crucible  steel,  that  means  it  is  melted  in 
earthen  pots  over  furnaces  in  which  care  must  be  taken  at 
all  times  to  retain  a  certain  degree  of  heat.  When  the 
"charge"  or  "mix"  in  several  of  these  pots  has  been 
brought  to  the  proper  heat  point,  the  pots  are  removed 
from  the  furnaces  and  all  poured  into  one  large  ladle. 
This  is  to  assure  uniformity  of  steel.  The  large  ladle 
containing  the  seething  mass  of  metal  is  then  poured  into 
special  moulds  which  form  ingots  of  solid  blocks,  weighing 
from  200  to  800  pounds.  These  ingots  are  later  subjected 
to  a  careful  inspection.  If  there  are  surface  flaws  they  are 
removed  by  chipping.  The  ingot  is  then  reheated  and 
hammered  to  the  shape  and  dimensions  required.  It  then 
goes  to  the  mill  to  be  rolled  into  plates.  In  this  operation 
much  care  is  necessary  in  the  heating  and  working  of  the 
steel.  TJie  saw  plate  ingot  must  now  be  drawn  into  proper 
dimensions  without  injury  to  the  quality  of  the  steel. 
Careful  supervision  and  skillful  workmanship  must  be 
exercised  to  produce  saw  plates  of  uniformity,  and  also 
to  prevent  any  weakening  by  injurious  strains  due  to 
improper  rolling  and  working. 

Heating  the  Plate.  The  next  operation  is  the  heating 
of  the  plate  to  a  uniform  temperature.  This  is  to  soften 
the  steel  and  bring  it  to  a  proper  condition  for- working. 
The  pressing  operation  to  flatten  the  plate  follows,  after 
which  the  plate  is  trimmed  and  inspected.  If  found  to  con- 
form with  the  standard  for  Simonds  Nickel  Steel  Band 
Saws,  it  is  passed  and  is  ready  for  the  necessary  operations 
for  making  the  saw. 


CHAPTER  III 

Making  a  Band  Saw 

The  Blade.  A  band  saw  blade  when  received  from  the 
rolling  mills  has  little  resemblance  to  the  finished  saw. 
From  the  black,  unfinished  band  of  steel  to  the  smooth 
polished,  tempered,  toothed  and  tensioned  saw  is  the 
difference  of  many  operations  in  which  the  skill  of  experi- 
enced saw-makers  is  shown  to  a  high  degree  in  the  manu- 
facture of  Simonds  band  saws.  Tempering  in  oil  bath, 
grinding  and  smithing  or  hammering  out  the  various  forms 
of  bends  and  twists  and  the  final  process  of  swaging, 
sidedressing  and  sharpening  the  teeth,  are  some  of  the 
important  processes  which  the  saw  passes  through.  This 
requires  men  skilled  in  practice  as  well  as  in  theoretical 
knowledge. 

Hardening  and  Tempering.  In  the  making  of  a 
Simonds  band  saw  the  first  operation  after  the  blank  band  is 
received  in  the  saw  factory  from  the  steel  mill  is  the  work 
of  hardening  and  tempering.  For  this  furnaces  and  other 
equipment  of  special  design  are  required  in  order  that 
uniformity  of  temper  may  be  secured  throughout  the 
entire  length  of  the  band.  Upon  being  removed  from  the 
furnace  the  saw  is  given  a  special  treatment  used  exclusive- 
ly by  Simonds,  and  then  it  is  tested  for  temper  by  a  scien- 
tific method,  nothing  being  left  for  guesswork  or  chance.  If 
the  saw  comes  up  to  the  established  Simonds  standard  it  is 
passed.  In  another  department  the  ends  of  the  band  are 
cut  off  and  the  smithing  done  in  the  "black"  to  make  it 
level.  After  being  ground  to  the  thickness  required  the 
saw  is  then  sheared  under  a  power  press  to  the  required 
width.  This  last  operation  leaves  the  solid  edge  for 
toothing.  The  grinding  of  the  edges  to  obtain  uniform 
width  of  the  blade  is  then  accomplished  through  the  use  of 


special  machines  and  the  band  is  then  ready  for  toothing. 
It  is  placed  in  a  power  press  set  with  a  die  of  the  particular 
pattern  of  tooth  desired.  At  each  stroke  of  the  press  one 
tooth  is  cut.  After  toothing  the=band  is  put  through 
the  brazing  operation.  The  ends  of  laps  are  beveled 
by  machinery  and  dressed  by  hand-filing  to  assure  a  per- 
fect joint.  The  ends  are  then  joined  by  a  strip  of  silver- 
solder  and  held  in  proper  position  by  a  clamp.  Heated 
irons  are  placed  on  the  part  to  be  brazed  and  also  under  it. 
Heavy  pressure  is  applied  until  the  solder  is  thoroughly 
melted  and  the  brazed  part  cooled  off.  The  joint  is  then 
dressed  and  given  the  proper  tension,  the  result  being  a 
strong  uniform  joint.  The  saw  is  now  ready  for  polishing 
and  after  this  has  been  accomplished  it  is  rolled  and 
tensioned  by  practically  the  same  methods  as  are  used 
in  the  saw  mills. 

Grinding.  The  endless  band  is  next-  placed  on  an 
automatic  grinding  machine  and  the  teeth  ground,  this 
machine  being  set  for  the  particular  size  and  shape  of 
tooth  to  be  ground.  After  this  the  teeth  are  swaged.  On 
large  band  saws  intended  for  mills  or  machines  of  great 
capacity  the  teeth  are  usually  swage-set,  the  points  of  the 
teeth  being  spread  to  extend  beyond  the  sides  of  the  blade 
for  clearance  to  prevent  friction  while  cutting.  Except  in 
the  case  of  narrow  band  saws  the  teeth  are  sharpened  on 
automatic  machines  in  a  similar  manner  to  that  of  grinding 
the  teeth.  This  assures  uniform  work  in  cutting.  In  the 
case  of  narrow  band  saws  with  fine  teeth,  hand  filing  is 
frequently  resorted  to.  Following  the  sharpening  the  saw 
is  etched,  and  before  being  packed  for  shipment  the 
operation  known  as  "stiffening"  to  bring  up  the  elasticity 
of  the  saw  is  applied. 


CHAPTER  IV 

Rolling  and  Tensioning  Wide 
Band  Saws 

New  Saws.  In  the  manufacturing  of  wide  band  saws  it 
is  not  possible  to  subject  the  saws  to  the  same  strains  that 
they  receive  in  mills.  They  are  liable  to  change  more  in 
the  first  run  than  on  any  succeeding  one,  and  should  be 
gone  over  carefully  the  first  time  they  come  off.  In  fact,  if 
the  practice  of  running  a  saw  only  half  an  hour  on  its  first 
run  then  taking  it  off  and  touching  it  up  wherever  necessary 
were  more  generally  used,  there  would  be  fewer  cracked 
band  saws,  and  their  life  would  be  greatly  increased. 

Care.  All  first-class  filers  and  millmen  know  that 
excessive  speed,  too  much  tension,  case-hardening  or 
glazing  from  the  use  of  an  unsuitable  emery  wheel,  gum 
adhering  to  the  face  of  the  wheel,  crystalization  from  too 
heavy  hammering,  cuts  on  the  surface  of  the  saw  from 
sharp  faced  hammers,  vibration  of  either  machine  or  saw. 
sharp  angles  in  the  gullets,  imperfectly  adjusted  guides, 
backs  of  saws  being  too  long  or  too  short,  excessively  cross 
aligned  to  make  them  "track,"  insufficient  throat  room  and 
hook,  crowding  the  saw  against  the  back  guard,  will  cause 
a  saw  to  crack.  Yet  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  all 
band  saws  are  more  or  less  subject  to  these  conditions, 
entirely  too  often  the  cause  of  fracture  is  attributed  to  the 
quality  of  the  steel,  or  over-hardness. 

Toughness.  It  may  be  said  in  justice  to  the  saw  man- 
ufacturer that  due  consideration  should  be  given  the  fact 
that  the  saw  is  only  one  item,  while  each  and  every  one  of 
the  above  named  causes  is  a  large  factor  in  producing  cracks 
in  band  saws.  If  the  saw  will  stand  swaging,  and  the  swage 
can  be  compressed  without  fracturing  the  steel,  it  is  con- 


elusive  evidence  that  the  steel  is  tough,  and  that  the  temper 
is  not  too  high. 

A  Few  Points.  Many  letters  are  received  from  band 
mill  owners  and  operators  asking  advice  as  to  the  best 
method  to  fit,  tension,  and  operate  saws,  in  order  to  obtain 
the  best  results  in  capacity  and  quality  of  lumber  made, 
and,  at  the  same  time,  get  the  most  wear  out  of  the  saws. 

It  is  almost  impossible  to  lay  down  rules  that  will  fit  all 
cases,  or  answer  correctly  any  one  of  them,  without  know- 
ing the  exact  conditions  under  which  the  saws  are  to  run, 
but  we  will  give  a  few  of  the  most  important  points  in 
connection  with  the  care  and  management  of  band  saws, 
which  if  followed  out  carefully,  will  aid  those  who  have 
neglected  any  of  these  points. 

Assuming  that  you  have  a  good  mill,  built  by  a  man  who 
has  learned  by  experience  so  to  proportion  and  distribute 
the  metal  in  the  machine,  that  the  saw  can  be  strained  up 
to  the  proper  point  without  springing  or  distorting  any 
part  of  the  machine,  and  yet  have  ample  margin  of  strength 
to  properly  stand  the  additional  strain  put  on  it  by  vibra- 
tion— such  a  mill  is  the  only  one  from  which  a  man  can 
expect  to  get  best  results. 

Vibration.  It  is  well  known  that  vibration  is  one  of 
the  greatest  causes  of  bad  results  in  the  use  of  band  saws, 
and  knowing  this,  great  attention  should  be  paid  at  all 
times  to  the  wheels  and  their  shafts,  the  journals,  and  boxes. 
The  wheels  must  be  round,  plumb,  and  in  perfect  balance, 
and  the  shafts  must  run  free  in  their  boxes,  with  no  lost 
motion. 

Cracking.  Sawyers  frequently  complain  that  their 
saws,  which  have  been  doing  good  work  and  giving  perfect 
satisfaction,  begin  to  crack.  This  is  not  so  surprising  when 
one  considers  the  great  tensile  strain  the  saw  is  subjected 
to  while  running  and  the  great  number  of  times  it  is  bent 

15 


and  straightened  in  running  over  the  wheels,  all  of  which 
eventually  cause  crystallization  of  the  steel,  and  tends  to 
crack  the  saw. 

Less  Crown.  None  of  the  leading  band  mill  owners 
are  putting  so  much  crown  in  their  wheels  as  they  were  a 
few  years  ago,  and  some  of  them  are  making  flat  wheels. 
Each  style  has  its  advocates,  and  will  give  good  satisfaction 
when  properly  handled.  But,  as  some  of  the  leading  mill 
builders  give  -^  inch  in  a  10  inch  face  wheel,  it  seems  a 
question  of  education  or  preference  on  the  part  of  a  perfectly 
flat  faced  wheel.  However,  it  is  easy  to  see  that  the  more 
crown  there  is  to  the  wheels,  the  more  tension  will  be 
required,  which  means  that  the  saw  will  need  more  hammer- 
ing and  rolling,  consequently  it  will  not  be  so  flat,  and  neces- 
sarily will  need  more  kerf  to  clear  the  plate.  Saws  kept  in 
this  condition  are  more  liable  to  crack. 

Uniform  Tension.  Perfectly  uniform  tension  is  an 
important  factor  in  the  care  of  band  saws,  for,  if  the  saw 
has  fast  and  loose  places  in  it,  the  tendency  to  crack  is 
largely  increased,  the  fast  spots  cracking  from  undue 
strain,  and  the  loose  spots  from  constant  buckling  of  the 
surplus  metal. 

Tools.  The  tools  required  for  the  care  of  band  saws  are 
a  roll,  a  cross-face  hammer,  and  a  round  or  dog-head 


Fig.  No.  i 
16 


Fig.  No.  2 


hammer,  each  weighing  about  two  and  one-half  pounds. 

The  face  in  line  with  the  handle  of  the  hammer  is  termed 
the  long  face;  the  face  at  right  angles  with  the  line  of 
handle,  is  the  cross  face.  A  blow  struck  with  this  hammer, 
when  held  in  the  position  as  shown  in  Fig.  3  is  a  long-face 


Fig.  No.  3 


blow,  and,  by  turning  the  hammer  over  without  altering 
the  line  of  the  handle,  but  reversing  the  position  of  the 
faces,  cross-face  blows  can  be  struck  with  it. 

The  round-face  or  "dog-head"  hammer  has  but  one  face, 
which,  as  its  name  indicates,  is  round.  It  is  used  chiefly 
for  adjusting  the  tension.  This  face  must  be  ground  con- 
vex, of  an  even  sweep,  so  as  to  strike  a  round  blow  exactly 
in  the  centre  of  the  face,  the  mark  of  its  blows  to  be  about 
J/sto  %  inch  in  diameter. 

By  the  use  of  the  cross-face  and  long-face  hammer,  the 
operator  can,  without  changing  his  position,  make  all  the 
forms  of  blows  shown  in  cuts. 

To  become  accustomed  to  the  use  of  the  hammer,  take 
each  hammer  in  turn,  grasping  it  firmly  by  the  handle 
about  two-thirds  its  length  from  the  head. 

17 


Too  much  attention  cannot  be  given  to  the  matter  of 
becoming  proficient  in  the  command  of  the  hammer. 

Saw  Hammering.  Having  now  learned  to  control  the 
hammer  you  may  proceed  to  the  practice  of  saw  hammer- 
ing, and  the  adjustment  of  saws.  To  experiment,  take  a 
piece  of  worn-out  band  saw,  about  five  feet  long,  and  lay 
it  on  the  anvil.  Take  a  straight-edge  and  place  it  edge- 
wise across  the  saw.  Beginning  at  the  end  farthest  from 
you  find  the  largest  lumps  first,  drawing  the  level  over  the 
entire  extent  of  each  lump.  Lay  the  bevel  down  and  take 
the  hammer,  and,  by  a  careful  distribution  of  blows,  pro- 
ceed to  knock  down  the  lumps,  using  blows  heavy  or  light 
as  the  case  may  require. 

Blows.  Repeat  the  operation  until  you  have  gone  the 
entire  length  of  the  piece,  turn  it  over  and  repeat  the  opera- 
tion on  the  other  side.  The  direction  of  blows  is  across  the 


Fig.  No.  4 

'line  of  the  straight  edge  (see  Fig.  8)  and  must  always  be 
so;  hence,  as  your  instructions  were  to  place  your  straight 
edge  square  across  the  saw,  the  blows  you  have  applied, 


0  0  0  0  0  0  0  0  0  0  0  0  0  0  0  0  0  0  0  0 
000  00000  000  00  0000000 
00000000000000000000 
00000000000000000000 


Fig.  No.  5 

18 


which   run   lengthwise  of  the   saw,   are     long-face   blows, 
(See  Fig.  4.).      Whichever  face  of  the  hammer  you  use,  the 


Fig.   No.   6 

name  of  the  blow  is  determined  by  its  direction.      (See  Figs 
4,  5,  6  and  7). 

Having  taken  out  the  long-face  lumps  (Fig.  4)  go  over 
the  plate  carefully  a  second  time  to  see  that  the  work  has 


Fig.   No.   7 

been  properly  done,  then  proceed  to  take  out  the  cross-face 
lumps.     (See  Fig.  5.) 


Tension.  To  gain  a  knowledge  of  the  tension  as 
applied  to  the  band  saw,  lay  the  piece  you  have  already  been 
working  on,  lengthwise,  and  take  hold  of  one  end,  letting 
the  farthest  end  rest  on  the  plate  back  of  the  anvil.  Grasp 
tightly,  and  bend  to  a  curve  by  a  pressure  of  the  hand 
(Fig.  8  shows  the  manner  of  holding  the  plate).  When 
the  straight  edge  (Fig.  12)  is  placed  across  the  saw  the  parts 


Fig.  No.  9 

drawn  to  the  straight  edge  are  "fast, "  and  the  parts  that 
fall  away  from  it  are  "loose,"  and  the  parts  that  neither 


draw  to,  nor  fall  away,  are  "stiff,"  that  is,  they  show  no 
tension  (See  Figs  8,  9  and  10.) 

Stiffening.  The  effort  you  are  now  engaged  in  is  to 
make  this  piece  "stiff"  or  flat,  without  any  tension.  To 
this  end,  first  find  a  "fast"  place  by  bending  in  the  manner 
before  described.  The  "fast"  place  will  show  in  the  man- 
ner that  a  lump  shows  when  the  plate  is  lying  flat  (See 
Fig.  9.)  Having  located  the  "fast"  places,  and  noting  their 
extent,  turn  the  plate  over,  and  it  will  be  found  they  show 
in  exactly  the  same  manner  as  on  the  other  side  of  the  plate. 
With  the  round  hammer,  hammer  equally  on  either  side, 
try  with  the  straight  edge,  and  proceed  until  you  have  taken 
out  all  the  "fast." 

Fast  or  Loose.  The  "loose"  places  are  those  that  will 
drop  away  from  the  straight  edge  when  the  saw  is  bent. 
(See  Fig.  8).  These  are  removed  by  hammering  on 


Fig.  No.  ii 

either  edge  of  the  plate.  (See  Fig.  n).  Hammer  the 
piece  until  it  shows  neither  "fast"  nor  "loose"  places,  but 
shows  "stiff"  throughout,  as  described  above. 

Leveling  Up.  Now  proceed  to  "level  up,"  that  is, 
knock  down  any  lumps  you  may  have  made  in  using  the 
round-face  hammer.  When  the  blade  is  bent  under  the 
level  as  previously  described  and  shown  in  Fig.  8,  a  "fast" 
place  shows  where  the  blows  should  be  placed. 

For  Beginners.  The  foregoing  illustrations  and 
advice  are  for  the  beginner,  to  show  how  tension  may  be 
applied  to  the  saw  with  the  hammer,  but  we  recommend 


the  rolls,  which  will  do  the  same  work,  except  in  a  few 
instances,  for  the  reason  that  every  blow  of  the  hammer 
shortens  the  life  of  the  saw  by  closing  the  molecules  of  the 
steel,  robbing  it  of  its  elasticity,  thereby  causing  brittle- 
ness  and  inviting  cracks. 

Twists.  There  are  two  kinds  of  twists,  the  long-face 
and  the  cross-face.  The  long-face  is  that  which  must  be 
removed  by  the  use  of  the  long  face  of  the  cross-face  ham- 
mer applied  diagonally  across  the  blade,  as  in  Fig.  6. 
The  cross-face  twist  is  that  which  must  be  removed  by  the 
use  of  the  cross  face  of  the  cross-face  hammer  applied 
diagonally  across  the  blade,  as  in  Fig.  7.  Now,  as  the 
long-face  produces  a  cross-face  twist,  the  opposite  blow 
(cross-face)  will  remove  it  or  vice  versa.  The  same  rule 
applies  to  twists  as  to  tension.  Both  sides  of  the  blade 
must  be  equally  hammered.  Before  removing  either 
twist,  place  the  straight  edge  diagonally  across  the  blade, 
and  you  will  find  that  it  shows  a  lump  at  right  angles  to  the 
straight  edge.  Changing  the  position  of  the  straight  edge 
to  an  exactly  opposite  diagonal  direction,  you  will  find  a 
hollow.  Without  changing  the  position  of  the  straight 
edge,  turn  the  piece  over,  and  you  will  find  a  hollow  on 
either  side,  and,  in  like  manner,  with  the  straight  edge  in 
the  opposite  diagonal  direction  you  will  find  a  lump  on 
both  sides,  showing  that  both  sides  must  be  hammered  to 
remove  the  twist. 

Removing  Twists.  In  removing  twists,  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  hammer  too  much,  or  an  opposite  twist  to  the 
one  removed  will  be  produced.  Also  note  that  when  the 
piece  is  lying  flat  on  the  leveling  block,  the  parts  which  do 
not  lie  flat  are  at  opposite  corners  to  the  piece.  Where 
there  are  no  twists,  and  the  hammering  is  done  any  other 
way  than  either  parallel  with  the  length  of  the  blade,  or 
squarely  across  it,  a  twist  is  produced. 


It  would  be  presumption  to  expect  that  one  can  take  a 
saw  and  adjust  it  with  any  hope  of  success,  without  some 
practical  knowledge,  and  this  you  cannot  expect  to  obtain 
by  working  on  new  saws  as  they  come  from  the  manu- 
facturer, or  trying  to  adjust  them  in  therr  first  deviation  or 
flatness.  Try  to  master  the  above  rudimentary  instruc- 
tions. The  more  practice,  the  better  able  one  will  be  to 
keep  the  saw  in  working  order. 

Sharp  Saws.  A  saw  should  never  be  run  when  ex- 
tremely dull.  Normal  feed  when  the  saw  is  dull,  is  the 
same  as  feeding  a  well  sharpened  saw  beyond  its  capacity. 
Therefore,  never  neglect  this  important  part  of  your 
labors.  Always  keep  saws  sharp  and  in  good  condition. 

Clearance.  Not  having  set  or  clearance  enough  the 
closing  of  the  grain  or  fibre  produces  heat  at  the  base  of  the 
teeth.  This,  if  in  undue  degree,  causes  expansion  at  the 
edge  of  saws,  which  results  in  causing  a  wavy  or  vibrating 
motion  likely  at  any  time  to  start  small  cracks  at  the 
bottom  of  gullets. 

When  the  set  or  swage  is  light,  the  lumps  on  the  saw, 
even  when  passed  over  as  of  no  consequence  by  the  straight 
edge,  will  show  bright  and  clean,  while  the  hollow  places  are 
of  a  dull  color.  Watch  your  saw  carefully,  and,  when  these 
lumps  appear,  take  the  blocking  hammer  and  straight  edge 
and  go  over  them  carefully,  removing  them  as  before 
instructed. 

By  watching  these  indications,  and  by  a  careful  use  of 
the  straight  edge  and  hammer,  you  will,  by  a  little  practice, 
produce  a  flatter  saw  than  by  any  other  means  available 
to  the  millman.  In  all  saws,  band,  gang,  and  circular,  the 
most  essential  quality  is  a  steel  and  temper  that  will  swage 
and  hold  the  corners  and  at  the  same  time  be  stiff  enough 
to  stand  up  to  its  work  and  hold  its  tension  for  a  reasonable 

23 


length  of  time.  We  claim  for  Simonds  Saws  that  in  this 
respect  they  stand  at  the  head  of  all  makes. 

Double  Gut  Bands.  More  care  and  frequent  fitting 
is  required  to  maintain  the  double-cut  saws  than  single- 
cutting  variety.  The  principle  of  tensioning  and  leveling 
is  the  same  as  that  employed  on  the  single-cut  band  saw, 
but  it  is  necessary  to  be  careful  and  have  the  log  side  pre- 
sent a  true  and  even  surface. 

In  fact  filers  should  be  careful  to  keep  both  edges 
straight  and  true,  as  a  double  cut  band  saw  cannot  run 
properly  with  one  edge  longer  than  the  other. 

If  in  running  it  should  strike  a  little  gravel  or  become 
dull  on  the  log  side  it  is  necessary  to  change  and  refit  the 
saw  at  once  or  bad  lumber  will  result.  Rules  governing 
the  rolling,  straightening  and  dressing  the  teeth  on  single- 
cut  saws  apply  as  well  on  the  double-cut  band.  The  tools 
and  machinery  are  the  same  except  the  grinder  and 
clamp.  For  this  purpose  there  are  two  different  grinders, 
one  being  used  to  grind  the  saw  on  both  sides  at  the  same 
time  and  the  other  to  grind  but  one  side  and  repeat  the 
operation  on  the  other  side. 

Mill  operators  and  filers  agree  that  the  band  sharpener 
should  be  a  type  similar  to  the  ordinary  sharpener  for  single- 
cut  bands  designed  to  sharpen  one  side  of  the  saw  at  a 
time,  the  saw  being  supported  in  the  ordinary  manner  on 
post  brackets  and  fed  by  front  and  back  feed  finger,  the 
sharpener  equipped  as  a  right-  and  left-hand  machine. 
For  supporting  these  saws  there  are  six  special  post 
brackets  faced  with  hardened  steel,  over  which  the  points  of 
the  saw  slide.  On  the  special  feed  pawl  posts  at  front  and 
rear  of  the  sharpener,  similar  supports  are  provided,  and 
this  method  of  supporting  the  double-cutting  band  saw 
proves  satisfactory  in  practice,  making  it  easy  to  handle 
the  saw  without  injury  to  the  teeth. 

24 


For  double-cutting  band  saws  a  special  filing  clamp  is 
required.  This  is  provided  with  one  jaw  that  will  swing  so 
as  to  permit  the  insertion  or  removal  of  the  saw  without 
injury  to  the  saw  teeth.  In  most  respects  the  machines 
such  as  the  swage,  shaper,  stretcher,  brazing  clamp  and 
lap  grinder  are  suitable  for  either  single-  or  double-cut  band 


CHAPTER  V 

Leveling  a  Band  Saw 

The  Bench.  To  level  a  band  saw  lay  it  on  a  bench, 
inside  resting  on  leveling  block  perfectly  true.  With  the 
straight  edge,  about  10  inches  to  12  inches,  start  at  the 
braze  or  chalk  mark  on  the  saw,  taking  a  portion  about 
three  feet  long,  or  the  length  of  your  leveling  block,  and  go 
over  it  very  carefully,  pounding  down  the  high  places  only, 
or  places  where  you  may  find  small  lumps.  After  going  the 
entire  length  of  the  saw,  should  there  be  any  places  where 
daylight  can  be  seen  under  straight  edge,  take  saw  and  hang 
it  over  the  rack  which  is  above  your  filing  bench,  so  as  to 
have  the  outside  of  blade  rest  against  the  leveling  block. 
Start  again  at  the  braze  or  chalk  mark  and  go  over  the 
entire  length  of  the  saw  the  same  as  on  the  other  side,  being 
careful  not  to  hammer  too  heavily,  as  it  will  cause  extra 
work  on  the  other  side  again. 

Using  Straight  Edge.  After  having  the  saw  perfectly 
level  on  both  sides,  lay  it  down  again  on  the  bench  in 
the  former  position,  take  straight  edge  six  feet  long  and 
lay  it  against  the  back  of  saw.  Should  the  straight  edge 
rock  on  the  saw,  mark  the  places  where  the  straight  edge 
rocked  going  over  the  entire  length  of  saw  in  this  manner. 
Should  it  be  an  even  convex  or  crown  on  the  back  the  full 
distance  of  the  blade,  and  not  be  too  great  a  crown,  it 
would  be  advisable  to  fit  the  saw  in  this  manner.  We  should 
not  recommend  a  greater  crown  than  -^  to  -^  inch  in  six 
feet.  Should  a  low  place  be  found  on  the  back,  which  will 
fall  away  from  your  straight  edge,  mark  the  low  place  for 
the  full  distance.  Then  start  with  roll,  beginning  at  one 
end  of  chalk  mark  in  the  centre  of  blade,  and  roll  one  deep 
roll  through  centre  of  saw  the  full  distance  of  chalk  mark, 
then  go  I  inch  or  ij^  inch  to  the  side  next  chalk  mark  also 

26 


I  inch  to  the  other  side,  but  go  very  lightly.  Again,  go 
I  inch  farther  at  the  edge  where  chalk  mark  is  and  take 
another  roll.  Continue  this  onto  the  edge,  rolling  evenly. 
By  the  time  the  last  roll  is  taken  along  the  edge  where  the 
chalk  mark  is,  the  hollow  places  will  become  straight  and 
lie  close  to  the  straight  edge.  Should  the  straight  edge 
rock  too  much,  or  the  back  be  too  high  at  points,  continue 
a  like  performance  on  the  side  of  plate  opposite  the  high 
places. 

Uneven  Brazes.  In  straightening  uneven  brazes  in 
saws,  it  is  always  best  to  first  place  the  roll  in  centre  and 
work  to  the  edge,  rather  than  start  at  the  edge  and  go  to 
the  centre,  for,  in  working  from  the  centre  to  the  edge  of 
the  blade  the  filer  can  follow  much  closer  with  the  tension 
gauge  the  exact  amount  of  tension  he  has  in  the  blade, 
whereas,  in  working  from  the  edge  to  the  centre,  it  is  very 
difficult  to  keep  track  of  the  tension  being  put  in. 

Straight  Edge.  The  straight  edge  should  be  a  piece  of 
steel  from  10  inches  to  12  inches  long,  about  15  or  16  gauge, 
and  about  1^/2  inch  wide.  It  can  be  made  the  same  width 
all  the  way  along,  or  it  can  be  made  wider  in  the  centre  and 
taper  at  each  end,  which  is  much  more  convenient  to  han- 
dle. The  filer  should  always  have  what  is  known  as  a 
"try  gauge,"  so  as  to  be  able  to  fit  the  straight  edge  as  it 
wears,  which  it  naturally  will,  being  drawn  over  the  saw 
many  times  a  day.  For  dressing  the  straight  edge,  it  is 
advisable  to  use  a  mill  file,  and  draw  it  very  carefully  along 
the  full  length  of  the  steel  so  as  not  to  make  lumps  and 
hollows. 

Tension  Gauge.  The  tension  gauge  is  made  in  some- 
what the  same  manner  as  a  straight  edge, with  the  exception 
of  the  edges,  which  are  convexed  and  concaved.  A  tension 
gauge  should  be  from  40  to  45  degrees  convex  on  one  side, 
and  concave  on  the  other  in  like  manner,  so  that  when  the 

27 


saw  is  raised  with  the  left  hand  to  position  which  is  cus- 
tomary in  trying  tension  gauge  on  a  saw,  the  convex  side 
of  the  gauge  should  fit  the  proper  tension  in  the  blade. 

Even  Tension.  In  like  manner  to  concave  a  saw,  when 
saw  is  bent  down  by  tight  hand  to  about  the  same  angle 
as  it  was  raised  up,  the  saw  will  also  fit  the  concave  side  of 
the  straight  edge,  thus  giving  the  filer  absolute  assurance 
that  the  blade  is  tensioned  perfectly  even  on  both  sides. 

In  tension  gauges,  the  same  as  in  straight  edges,  the 
filer  should  always  have  a  try  gauge,  and  be  very  careful 
to  see  that  the  tension  gauge  is  kept  perfectly  true  with  the 
same  circle  on  both  ends,  so  as  not  to  have  more  tension 
on  one  side  of  the  saw  than  on  the  other.  If  this  is  followed 
up  carefully,  it  is  much  easier  for  a  filer  to  test  his  tension 
and  to  see  when  he  has  the  proper  amount  in  the  saw,  for 
many  filers  make  hard  work  for  themselves  in  having  im- 
proper tension  gauges. 

Adjusting  Automatic  Grinder.  An  automatic 
grinder  should  be  set  so  that  the  saw  when  on  the  machine 
is  parallel  with  the  bench.  If  there  is  plenty  of  room  in 
the  filing  room,  it  would  be  wise  to  set  the  grinder  some 
10  or  12  feet  from  the  bench  so  as  to  allow  plenty  of  room 
for  turning  the  saw.  It  is  always  preferable  to  set  the 
grinder  so  that  it  will  be  inside  of  the  saw  when  grinding. 
In  this  manner  there  may  be  considerable  room  saved. 

When  the  saw  is  hung  on  the  wheels,  have  the  wheels 
high  enough  so  that  saw  will  just  rest  lightly  on  the 
guard  and  one  standard.  If  the  saw  rests  on  both  the 
standards  and  guard  bad  work  will  result,  so  there  should 
be  a  little  clearance  between  the  front  standard  and  the 
guard.  This  will  permit  the  saw  to  lie  on  the  guard  and 
the  standard  opposite  the  machine  when  the  saw  is  pass- 
ing through.  Saw  should  run  through  the  automatic 
grinder  easy  enough  so  as  not  to  bind,  at  the  same  time 

28 


being  tight  and  stiff  enough  so  that  when  the  finger 
releases  the  teeth  it  will  not  slip  back,  therefore  overcoming 
any  danger  of  spoiling  the  teeth. 

Cams.  Grinders  have  a  variety  of  cams  for  different 
shaped  teeth,  and  if  a  filer  is  careful  in  selecting  the  proper 
cam,  it  will  enable  him  to  keep  the  proper  shape  of  tooth  on 
his  saw  with  little  difficulty.  There  are  a  number  of  filers 
who  have  considerable  trouble  keeping  the  proper  shape  of 
tooth  on  saw,  and  it  is  principally  due  to  not  having  the 
proper  cam  on  the  grinder. 

The  finger  should  always  be  carefully  watched  so  as  to 
press  the  teeth  at  the  same  point  all  the  time,  thereby 
making  an  equal  and  uniform  back  on  teeth. 

Use  of  Grinder.  With  little  practice  and  close  obser- 
vation, filers  will  get  to  use  a  grinder  with  a  great  deal  of 
satisfaction.  The  improper  use  of  a  grinder  will  soon 
make  an  uneven  breast  on  the  saw,  while,  on  the  other 
hand,  if  a  grinder  is  working  perfectly,  a  saw  may  be  kept 
perfectly  straight  and  sharp  without  the  use  of  a  file,  which 
is  preferable.  No  matter  how  accurate  a  filer  may  be  in 
filing  a  saw  by  hand,  there  is  nothing  so  accurate  as  a 
machine,  and  if  a  saw  can  be  finished  up  on  a  grinder  to 
go  on  the  mill,  it  is  bound  to  be  more  perfect  than  when  it 
is  fitted  up  by  hand. 

Filing  Clamp.  The  filing  clamp  should  be  set  either 
on  the  side  the  grinder  is  on,  or  the  opposite  side,  as  the 
hand  of  the  saw  may  require.  It  is  always  preferable  to 
work  on  the  outside  of  the  saw,  this  giving  more  room. 
However,  it  depends  wholly  on  the  light  in  the  filing  room 
as  to  what  position  to  work  at  filing  clamp.  Filing  clamps 
are  used  principally  to  clamp  the  saw  while  swaging  and 
shaping. 

Swaging  and  Shaping.  In  swaging  a  saw,  start  as 
far  back  on  one  side  as  possible  where  the  saw  is  straight. 

29 


Mark  a  tooth  to  start  on,  and  after  the  saw  is  clamped 
tightly  in  vise,  swage  the  distance  of  the  saw  as  far  as 
possible  without  swaging  over  a  wheel,  or  where  a  saw  is 
bent  out  of  a  straight  line.  After  going  this  distance 
take  the  shaper  and  follow  up  the  swaging.  See  to  it  that 
the  shaper  is  held  down  tight  to  the  teeth  all  the  time,  so  as 
to  go  over  every  tooth  the  same  way.  In  swaging  and 
shaping  band  saws  great  care  should  be  taken  that  the  dies 
of  swages  and  shapers  are  kept  in  perfect  shape  all  the  time 
so  as  to  fit  the  teeth  without  springing  the  steel  in  any  one 
way,  as  there  are  a  lot  of  corners  and  points  of  saws 
broken  off  by  improperly  shaped  dies  and  anvils  of  swages. 


CHAPTER  VI 

Brazing  a  Band  Saw 

The  Braze.  For  brazing,  band  saws  should  first  be 
lapped  about  %  inch  on  each  end  for  19  gauge  saws.  Lap 
should  be  increased  in  length  about  ^Q  inch  for  each  gauge 
heavier.  Laps  should  be  ground  accurate  in  width  and 
taper  and  should  be  a  straight  bevel  running  to  nearly  a 
sharp  edge. 

The  lap  should  be  well  cleaned  of  oil  and  grease. 
"Brazine"  a  preparation  sold  by  Simonds  Manufacturing 
Co.,  is  recommended  for  this  purpose. 

Position.  Be  careful  in  placing  the  saw  in  position  in 
the  clamps,  so  when  the  final  pressure  is  applied  with  the 
hot  irons  the  laps  will  come  together  in  proper  position. 

In  brazing,  the  saw  is  placed  between  the  clamps.  A 
piece  of  silver  solder  cut  to  the  same  size  as  the  laps,  is 
placed  between  the  laps.  The  silver  solder  should  also  be 
cleaned  in  "Brazine"  before  being  used.  Heat  the  irons 
to  a  good  cherry  red,  scrape  off  all  scale,  and  place  them  on 
either  side  of  the  laps.  Then,  pull  the  clamps  tight. 
Three-eights  inch  irons  are  used  for  gauges  lighter  than 
19  gauge;  %  inch  irons  for  19  to  16  gauge;  J^g  inch  irons 
for  heavier  than  16  gauge. 

Heavy  Irons.  The  heavier  irons  for  the  heavier  saws 
are  such  that  the  extra  volume  of  heat  contained  in  them  is 
sufficient  to  prevent  the  heavier  saws  from  cooling  too 
quickly. 

In  our  observation  in  mills,  we  find  frequently  that  saws 
crack  in  close  proximity  to  the  joint.  On  examination  we 
find  that  part  "fast"  at  or  near  the  location  of  the  crack. 

Pressing  Joint.  Pressing  the  joint  properly  is  the 
most  difficult  part  to  learn  of  the  entire  task.  The  method 
to  follow  in  this  is  hard  to  describe.  During  the  process  of 


brazing,  the  hot  irons  hold  the  saw  so  tightly  that  there  is 
no  room  for  expansion  under  their  pressure.  Outside  the 
irons  (as  far  as  the  heat  extends)  expansion  has  free  play, 
and  shows  in  lumps  on  either  side  of  the  joint,  which  is  now 
the  contracted  or  fast  part.  Therefore,  after  brazing,  roll 
the  braze  from  centre  to  edges  until  saw  lies  flat  or  nearly 
so. 

Tensioning  Braze.  Tension  the  brazes  with  a  roll  as 
much  as  possible  and  only  use  the  hammer  to  level  down 
the  lumps  and  to  take  out  cross  lumps  as  the  roll  is  much 
easier  on  the  braze.  Then  dress  both  sides  with  file,  being 
careful  not  to  file  too  much  and  make  the  saw  thin  at  the 
braze. 

Avoid  unnecessary  work.  Have  a  reason  for  every  blow. 
Try  to  put  it  in  the  right  place  every  time.  The  joint  is 
now  an  integral  part  of  the  saw,  and  will  stand  as  much  as 
any  other  portion.  This  is  a  test  for  the  quality  of  your 
work — let  it  be  good  or  bad. 

Thickness.  The  joint  having  been  perfectly  flat  trim 
it  to  even  thickness.  Great  care  should  be  taken  in  filing 
the  lap,  not  to  make  it  too  thin,  as  this  is  the  cause  of  a 
great  deal  of  trouble  regarding  brazes  cracking.  Then 
adjust  the  tension  and  breast  according  to  instructions 
already  given. 

Be  a  close  observer,  and  let  each  joint,  straightened  and 
adjusted,  be  an  object  lesson  in  the  tensibility  of  the  steel. 


CHAPTER  VII 

How  to  Tension  a  Band  Saw 

Tension.  The  tensioning  of  band  saws  is  an  important 
matter.  The  longer  the  experience  and  practice  one  has, 
the  more  perfect  he  becomes.  In  starting  in,  one  should 
always  begin  right  and  in  doing  so  it  will  be  much  easier 
to  follow  the  right  course. 

In  beginning  the  operation  of  tensioning  a  band  saw,  lay 
the  saw  on  the  bench.  Take  a  straight  edge  and  go  over 
the  saw  the  entire  length,  and  see  that  there  are  no  small 
lumps,  also  have  saw  perfectly  level.  Then  place  saw  in 
rolls,  starting  at  the  braze.  Roll  directly  in  the  centre  the 
entire  length  of  the  saw.  When  this  is  accomplished  shift 
the  roll  I  inch  to  one  side  and  go  around  the  entire  length 
of  the  saw  as  described.  Then  place  the  roll  i  inch  the 
other  side  of  the  centre  going  the  entire  length  of  the  saw, 
and  so  on  working  from  the  centre  to  the  edges,  not  going 
any  closer  to  the  edge  than  I  J£  inch,  leaving  what  is  com- 
monly known  as  the  tire  or  strain  line  on  the  toothed  edge. 
On  resaws  16,  17  and  18  gauge  the  tire  strain  line  should 
be  about  I  inch  and  when  the  gauge  is  19,  20  and  21  a 
%  inch  tire  is  sufficient. 

Uneven  Tension.  Should  the  tension  be  uneven  in 
the  saw,  it  is  not  advisable  to  go  all  the  length  of  the  saw 
with  the  roll  but  just  over  the  fast  places.  Roll  very 
lightly  at  first  until  perfectly  acquainted  with  the  hardness 
of  the  plate,  as  the  tension  is  much  more  difficult  to  take 
out  then  to  put  in.  Should  there  be  too  much  tension  in 
saw,  run  the  roll  lightly  around  each  edge  of  the  saw  about 
i  or  \}/2  inch  from  the  edge.  This  should  be  done  very 
carefully  though,  as  one  is  liable  to  take  out  too  much  of  the 
tension  and  make  the  strain  line  of  the  saw  too  loose. 

33 


Use  of  Roll.  If  proper  care  is  used  in  handling  the 
roll,  it  will  save  the  filer  considerable  work  on  the  block 
with  the  hammer,  as  the  saw  can  be  very  easily  dished  one 
way  or  another  with  the  roll,  thereby  causing  considerable 
leveling  that  could  otherwise  be  avoided. 

Circle.  The  circle  of  the  tension  in  an  ordinary  band 
saw  should  conform  to  a  40  or  45  foot  circle;  that  is,  a 
tension  gauge,  convexed  to  a  40  or  45  foot  circle,  should  fit 
to  conform  to  the  declension  or  "drop"  of  the  blade,  when 
tested  as  shown  in  Fig.  10.  This  is  about  the  average 
tension  used  in  all  mills  with  flat  wheels.  Any  more 
tension  than  this  is  liable  to  give  great  trouble  by  cracking 
as  the  tensile  is  too  great  on  the  strain  or  tire  line  therefore 
cracking  while  running  over  the  wheel. 

Flat  on  Wheels.  The  saw  when  strained  on  the  band 
wheels,  should  be  nearly  flat  all  across  the  wheel,  but 
strained  a  little  heavier  on  the  toothed  edge  than  at  any 
other  part.  Saws  that  rest  too  heavily  on  each  side,  and 
rise  up  in  the  centre  from  the  wheel,  do  not  do  as  good  work 
as  a  saw  that  is  nearly  flat,  as  the  body  of  the  saw  is  not 
stiff  enough  to  hold  the  teeth  in  a  straight  line,  thereby 
allowing  them  to  lead  one  way  or  the  other.  This  strain 
is  not  secured  by  adjustment  of  the  wheels,  but  through 
lenghtening  the  back  of  the  saw  ^  or  ^  of  an  inch  in  6 
feet.  This  is  the  reason  the  average  filer  runs  a  long 
back  saw. 

Unequal  Tension.  Unequal  tension  is  the  cause  of 
much  trouble  and  breakage,  but,  as  one  gains  in  experience, 
it  is  easily  remedied.  The  saw  may  work  well  at  first,  and 
yet  every  time  it  is  used  or  filed,  its  tension  may  be 
altered,  perhaps  not  to  any  great  extent  while  the  saw  is  at 
work,  but  the  inequalities  can  be  very  easily  detected  by 
the  use  of  the  tension  gauge.  Constant  care  and  watch- 
fulness will  teach  the  need  of  a  little  "touching  up"  here 

34 


and  there,  as  the  case  may  require.  It  is  in  this  way,  line 
upon  line;  that  one  gradually  becomes  master  of  his  work. 

Use  of  Tension  Gauge.  For  the  benefit  of  the  few 
who  are  not  acquainted  with  the  use  of  the  tension  gauge, 
a  brief  explanation  of  its  use  in  connection  with  the  adjust- 
ment of  band  saws  is  timely  and  important. 

When  the  speed  of  the  band  saw  was  increased  to  10,000 
feet  per  minute,  together  with  the  increased  feed,  it  was 
found  that  in  order  to  have  the  saw  stand  the  increased 
tensile  strain,  it  was  necessary  to  have  a  deep, well  regulated 
tension.  Loose  tension  beyond  a  certain  degree  will  carry 
down  the  "fast"  places  so  they  cannot  be  detected  by  the 
straight  edge.  With  the  tension  gauge,  which  is  convex 
to  fit  the  amount  of  tension  in  saw,  the  most  minute 
portions  of  "fast"  can  be  located.  By  using  the  tension 
gauge  under  pressure  it  will  show  up  the  loose  and  fast 
places  much  more  distinctly  than  by  holding  it  loosely. 

Tension  Gauge.  The  form  of  a  tension  gauge  may  be 
seen  by  reference  to  Fig.  12.  The  edge  "B"  is  convex,  by 


Fig.  No.  12 

the  use  of  which  is  secured  a  uniform  tension.  The  sweep 
of  the  convex  edge,  fitting  the  declension,  is  governed  by 
the  amount  of  tension  the  saw  is  found  to  need.  The 
convex  side  should  always  fit  the  depth  the  saw  dishes  or 
drops  when  bent  to  test  the  tension,  as  shown  in  Fig.  8. 

To  Level  Saw.  To  level,  place  the  saw  in  position  for 
rolling,  mark  the  saw  and  begin  by  knocking  down  the 
lumps,  both  "long-face"  and  "short-face."  This  done, 
take  the  tension  level  in  your  right  hand,  place  your  left 

35 


under  the  blade,  raising  it  to  nearly  the  height  of  your 
shoulder,  and  place  the  tension  level  squarely  across  the 
blade  at  arms'  length,  as  shown  in  Fig.  8.  The  "fast" 
portions  will  lie  closely  to  the  gauge,  and  show  in  about  the 
same  manner  as  a  lump  shows  under  the  straight  edge  when 
the  saw  is  lying  flat.  Now  proceed  according  to  instruc- 
tions on  page  18.  You  cannot  turn  the  saw  over  as  you 
would  a  short  piece,  therefore  be  careful  and  not  hammer 
too  much  so  as  to  drive  the  saw  through. 

Hammer  Short  Lumps.  This  is  the  time  to  exercise 
qualities  of  perception  and  memory,  for  when  you  have  gone 
around  the  saw  on  one  side,  take  the  other,  and  again  using 
the  straight  edge  begin  at  the  joint  or  chalk  mark  and 
hammer  down  all  the  short  lumps  and  high  places  as  nearly 
as  you  can  in  like  amount  on  the  other  side. 

Rolling.  To  make  the  tension  less  or  stiffer,  roll  gently 
on  the  extreme  edges  of  the  saw,  wherever  this  is  needed. 
To  put  in  more  tension  (to  "open  up")  roll  on  the  inner 
portions  of  the  blade.  (See  instructions  on  tension, 
Page  33.) 

Breast.  Uneven  breast  is  indicated  by  hollow  and  high 
places — not  by  uneven  width.  Blades  may  have  parallel 
edges,  but,  not  being  in  a  straight  line,  cause  a  lateral 
movement  when  the  saw  is  in  motion,  thus  presenting  an 
uneven  and  everchanging  cutting  front.  To  draw  these 
places  out  straight,  take  a  long  straight  edge,  six  feet  long 
(this  is  a  convenient — one  shorter  than  this  would  be  too 
short)  or  we  would  recommend  a  concave  back  level,  the 
same  length,  -^  or  -^  of  an  inch  hollow  as  desired; — place 
it  against  the  back  edge  of  the  saw,  locate  the  point  most  out 
of  line,  making  a  chalk  mark  on  the  opposite  side  to  where 
the  straight  edge  rocks.  After  marking  the  entire  length 
of  the  saw,  you  may  find  that  it  has  one  continuous  bend. 
This  is  a  condition  necessary  in  a  great  many  cases.  That 

36 


is,  the  back  edge  should  be  a  trifle  longer  than  the  toothed 
edge,  but  it  should  be  uniformly  so  throughout  the  entire 
length  of  the  blade,  and  our  experience  teaches  us  that  the 
crown  of  the  back  should  not  exceed  ^  (we  would  recom- 
mend about  ^)  of  an  inch  in  six  feet.  If  you  find  it  does 
exceed  this  amount,  or  the  amount  which  your  mill  seems 
to  require,  roll  fom  one  end  of  the  blade  to  the  other, 
working  carefully  no  matter  which  course  you  take.  Begin 
at  the  edge  on  the  hollow  side  of  the  plate,  rolling  gently 
from  edge  to  centre.  By  this  means,  with  care,  altering 
the  tension  may  be  avoided. 


37 


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38 


CHAPTER  VIII 

Band  Saw  Speed  and  Strain 

Speed.  The  speed  at  which  a  band  saw  should  run 
depends  on  the  kind  of  timber  to  be  sawed  and  the  amount 
of  work  it  is  required  to  do.  When  a  band  saw  has  to  deal 
with  both  soft  and  hard  woods  it  is  an  advantage  if  means 
are  provided  to  vary  the  speed  at  which  it  runs.  For  cut- 
ting the  softest  materials,  such  as  unseasoned  pine,  bass 
wood,  etc.,  a  maximum  speed  of  10,000  feet  per  minute 
is  considered  reasonable.  For  seasoned  softwood,  and 
unseasoned  comparatively  hard  wood,  such  as  oak,  gum, 
etc.,  a  speed  of  10,000  feet  per  minute  is  recommended  by 
many  experts.  For  maple,  hickory  or  other  comparatively 
seasoned  hardwood  a  speed  of  8,000  feet  per  minute  has 
been  considered  sufficient.  In  cutting  seasoned  hardwood 
and  unseasoned  exceedingly  hard  wood,  a  saw  speed  of 
7,000  feet  per  minute  is  adopted  by  many  mills. 

Strain.  When  the  strain  of  a  band  saw  is  required  or  it 
is  desired  to  know  how  much  weight  to  put  on  the  lever 
when  the  strain  is  known,  the  accompanying  sketch  and 
table  will  be  found  useful.  The  illustration  shows  the 
weights  hung  on  the  lever  of  a  typical  mill  and  these  are 
designed  as  A.  The  point  B  is  known  as  the  fulcrum, 
and  C  the  point  where  the  end  of  the  lever  acts  upon  the 
vertical  shaft  supporting  the  saw,  wheels  and  bearings. 
The  diagram  is  used  for  easy  solution  of  the  problem  as 
follows:  the  distance  A-B  is,  we  will  assume  48  inches, 
and  the  distance  B-C  is  ij^inch.  Thus  as  in  the  simple 
leverage  formula,  weight  times  48  is  equal  to  the  unknown 
resistance  (or  strain)  at  C  times  ij^  inch.  In  other  words 
they  must  balance  which  means  the  lever  mustbehorizontal. 
If  48  times  weight  equals  i  J/£  times  the  resistance  or  strain, 
then  this  strain  is  equal  to  the  weight  times  48,  divided  by 
the  distance  l%. 

39 


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40 


Number  Pounds.  The  table  is  used  when  it  is  required 
to  know  the  number  of  pounds  to  put  on  a  lever,  assuming 
that  there  is  but  one  lever  or  two  that  merge  into  one,  and 
also  that  the  weight  of  boxes  and  wheel  is  counterbalanced. 

From  the  table  it  will  be  seen  that  6,000  Ibs.  is  required 
for  a  10  inch,  15  gauge  saw.  We  have,  using  the  simple 
leverage  formula  again,  6,000  times  i^  is  equal  to  48 
times  the  weights.  Then  the  weights  are  equal  to  6,000 
times  \y%,  divided  by  48,  or  9,000  divided  by  48  or  187^/2 
Ibs.  the  weight  required  to  give  the  necessary  strain  on  the 
saw. 


CHAPTER  IX 

The  Band  Saw  Mill 

Wheel  Face.  The  face  of  band  mill  wheels  for  single- or 
double-cut  mills  should  be  perfectly  flat,  or  as  nearly  so  as 
possible,  as  this  is  a  very  essential  thing  in  the  accuracy  of 
saws  running,  and  in  the  life  of  band  saws,  there  should 
be  especial  attention  paid  to  this  to  see  that  the  wheels  are 
kept  in  perfect  condition.  It  is  advisable  to  turn  the  face 
of  band  wheels  at  least  once  a  year,  and,  if  possible,  twice. 
There  is  not  much  to  grind  off  of  them  in  that  time,  and 
they  can  always  be  kept  true,  for  a  band  wheel  will  some- 
cimes  get  out  of  true  with  ordinary  use.  Itf  great  care  is 
taken  in  this,  it  will  save  the  filer  a  lot  of  extra  work  on 
saws,  and  also  save  a  great  many  dollars'  worth  of  saws. 

Adjustment.  The  adjustment  of  a  band  mill  is 
another  very  essential  thing.  If  a  mill  is  not  in  good 
plumb,  or  in  true  line,  no  matter  how  good  a  mill,  or  how 
well  it  is  built,  it  is  impossible  to  do  good  work. 

In  setting  up  a  band  mill,  it  should  be  set  plumb,  or  as 
nearly  so  as  it  is  possible,  with  the  V  carriage  track,  so  that 
when  the  mill  is  complete  and  the  saw  put  on,  it  will  hang 
perfectly  parallel  with  the  track.  Unless  this  is  the  case, 
it  is  impossible  for  a  band  saw  to  cut  true  lumber  as  you 
cannot  lead  a  band  saw  with  the  guides.  The  head 
blocks  on  a  carriage  should  be  set  perfectly  true,  and 
parallel  with  both  track  and  saw.  It  is  advisable  in  lining 
head  blocks,  to  measure  the  distance  from  the  teeth  of 
the  saw  to  each  head  block,  as  the  carriage  may  be  run 
slowly  along  the  track.  In  doing  this,  the  head  blocks  will 
all  be  the  same  distance  from  the  saw  as  when  passing. 

Steel  Faced  Pulleys.  Crystallization  of  a  band  saw 
is  caused  in  various  ways.  Saws  running  on  and  off  steel 
face  pulleys  at  a  rapid  rate  will  have  a  tendency  to  crystal- 

42 


lize  the  blade.  Saws  running  through  guides  have  a 
tendency  to  crystallize.  Slivers,  sawdust,  or  any  fibre  of 
that  kind  getting  between  the  saw  and  the  side  of  the  log, 
also  have  a  tendency  to  crystallize  the  steel  to  some  extent. 
Band  saws  are  more  frequently  crystallized  by  the  use  of 
improper  metal  in  the  guides,  or  by  the  guides  being  improp- 
erly set. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  when  a  band  saw  is  strained 
on  the  mill  and  running,  that  it  runs  perfectly  free,  does 
not  oscillate  or  vibrate,  and  is  perfectly  parallel  with  the 
carriage  track.  *  This  being  closely  watched,  and  the  mill, 
saws,  and  carriage  kept  in  perfect  line,  it  will  relieve  the 
filer  or  operator  of  a  lot  of  unnecessary  work.  Get  your 
two  wheels  in  line  and  keep  them  in  line.  Then  use  your 
tilt  to  adjust  your  saw  and  not  your  crossline. 

Care  in  Handling.  We  trust  that  this  will  be  of 
helpful  assistance  to  mill  owners  and  operators,  as  we  feel 
it  has  been  to  us.  We  would  suggest  in  conclusion  that 
band  saw  operators  take  great  care,  and  exercise  patience, 
in  the  handling  and  manipulation  of  band  saws,  as  we 
have  always  found  it  is  much  better  to  go  very  slowly  at 
the  start  until  one  knows  perfectly  the  surrounding  condi- 
tions, and  we  believe  it  is  better  to  go  slowly  in  experiment- 
ing in  new  ideas,  until  fully  accomplished  in  the  care  of  saw. 

Guides.  The  guides  through  which  the  saw  runs, 
should  be  of  frictionless  material,  such  as  Babbitt  metal, 
or  something  of  this  kind.  We  would  recommend  a  very 
hard  wood  such  as  lignum  vitae,  which  contains  lubricating 
properties,  and  should  not  rest  tightly  against  the  saw 
when  strained,  but  should  have  clearance  enough  to  hold 
the  saw  from  running  in  or  out  of  the  cut,  but  not  to  bind 
it,  as  this  would  be  the  means  of  case-hardening  or  crystal- 
lizing the  steel  more  quickly  than  by  any  other  possible 
means. 

43 


Guard.  The  guard,  or  what  is  known  as  the  back 
guide,  for  a  band  mill,  should  be  used  only  as  a  safeguard 
against  running  the  saw  off  the  back  of  the  wheel  but  it 
never  should  be  set  up  so  that  the  saw  will  run  against  it. 
If  in  any  way  the  saw  may  run  back  against  the  back  guide 
and  crystallize  or  case-harden,  it  is  advisable  to  take  an 
old  piece  of  emery  wheel,  while  the  saw  is  in  motion,  and 
hold  it  tightly  on  the  back  for  some  minutes,  turning  it 
around  to  make  the  back  of  the  blade  perfectly  round  and 
true,  and  at  the  same  time  taking  out  the  case-hardening 
or  crystallization  that  may  have  been  put  in  by  running 
heavily  on  the  back  guide.  This  will  be  found  to  prevent 
cracks. 


44 


CHAPTER  X 

Fitting    and    Running    Small    Band 
Saws 

Small  Bands.  The  breakage  of  small  bands  in  wood- 
working plants  is  the  source  of  much  annoyance  to  the 
operators  of  such  plants.  Among  the  most  frequent 
causes  of  breakage  we  name  the  following:  the  use  of 
saws  unsuitable  gauge  for  the  work;  the  use  of  an  improper 
arrangement  for  giving  the  saw  the  required  strain  on  the 
wheel;  not  slacking  saw  after  use,  thus  preventing  the  free 
contraction  of  saw  blades  on  cooling  down  (they  should 
always  be  left  a  trifle  slack  when  not  in  motion);  the  joint 
not  being  the  same  thickness  as  the  rest  of  the  blade;  the 
back  guide  being  too  close,  so  that  the  saw  is  constantly 
rubbing  against  it,  consequently  case-hardening  the  back 
of  saw,  and  cracking  it.  The  back  guide  should  never  be  so 
close  that  the  saw  will  come  in  contact  with  it.  It  is  only 
placed  there  as  a  matter  of  precaution,  and  when  the  saw 
will  not  stay  on  the  wheel  without  being  held  there  with 
the  back  guide,  there  is  trouble  somewhere,  which  should 
be  located  and  corrected. 

Saws  should  never  be  filed  to  sharp  corners  at  gullets; 
they  should  always  be  rounded  out  with  a  round  file  or 
emery  wheel. 

Working  dull  saws,  feeding  work  onto  the  saw  beyond  its 
cutting  capacity,  allowing  the  sawdust  to  collect  on  the  face 
of  wheel,  thus  causing  it  to  become  lumpy  and  uneven, 
stopping  or  starting  a  machine  too  suddenly — especially 
when  using  a  light  blade — will  almost  certainly  snap  a  saw 
in  two. 

Wheel  Covering.  When  a  covered  wheel  is  used,  it 
should  be  frequently  examined  to  see  that  it  is  perfectly 
true  on  the  face,  as  a  covered  wheel  is  much  more  liable 

45 


to  get  out  of  true  than  a  solid  one.  We  think  leather  is 
preferable  to  rubber,  as  it  can  be  trued  very  easily  by 
turning. 

Saws  should  be  frequently  breasted  to  keep  them  per- 
fectly true  on  the  toothed  edge,  and  the  teeth  of  uniform 
depth.  For  ripping,  the  teeth  should  be  filed  perfectly 
straight  across;  but  where  rip  and  cut-off  work  are  both 
done  on  the  same  saw,  it  is  well  to  file  the  teeth  a  trifle 
flemming.  Run  as  narrow  a  set  as  possible,  but  always 
have  enough  to  clear  the  plate  and  prevent  it  from  binding 
in  the  cut,  as  this  would  surely  cause  the  saw  to  crack. 
Soft  or  pithy  timber  requires  more  set  than  timber  that 
is  free  from  pitch.  Hard  wood  requires  the  least  of  any. 

Full  Swage.  All  band  saws  having  teeth  of  sufficient 
size  to  admit  of  swaging,  should  be  fitted  full  swage. 
There  are  many  kinds  of  swages  used  for  this  class  of  saw 
fitting,  and  with  due  care  any  of  them  can  be  used  with  very 
good  results.  The  bar  and  hammer,  and  the  upset  have, 
however,  almost  entirely  gone  out  of  use  in  the  swaging  of 
band  saws,  except  where  the  upset  is  used  in  connection 
with  other  swages  of  the  roller  style.  We  think  every  band 
saw  filer  should  have  one,  as  they  are  very  useful  in  case 
the  saw  runs  onto  a  stone  or  gravel,  and  a  little  more 
spread  is  needed  than  can  be  obtained  by  one  operation  of 
the  roller  swage.  In  a  case  of  this  kind  the  upset  can  be 
used  to  good  advantage  by  placing  it  on  the  point  of  tooth, 
when,  with  a  few  light  blows  of  a  hammer,  the  point  of 
tooth  can  be  spread  a  little,  and,  at  the  same  time  made  ' 
thicker.  Thus  one  application  of  the  roller  swage  will  draw 
the  point  of  the  tooth  out  sufficiently  to  give  a  good  full 
swage.  The  saw  should  be  kept  perfectly  true  on  the  cut- 
ting edge,  and  the  points  of  uniform  width  throughout. 
To  regulate  the  width  of  points,  we  recommend  the  use  of  a 
"shaper, "  as  it  gives  a  better  and  more  uniform  shape  to 
the  teeth.  (See  cuts  of  section  of  band  saw  teeth). 

46 


H.  I.  J.  K. 

Referring  to  the  sketches  H,  I,  J,  and  K,  which  illus- 
trate full  swage,  the  tooth  marked  "H"  represents  the 
ideal  shape,  both  in  swaging  and  side-dressing.  The  cut- 
ting edge  of  the  tooth  only  should  come  in  contact  with  the 
wood,  and  this  cutting  edge  should  have  clearance  both 
downward  and  backward  from  the  point.  This  double 
clearance  can  be  more  properly  secured  by  using  a  swage 
shaper. 

Tooth  "J"  represents  a  point  improperly  side-dressed, 
the  swage  running  too  far  down  the  face  of  the  tooth,  and 
not  having  the  necessary  amount  of  clearance. 

Tooth  "K"  represents  tooth  "J"  after  striking  gravel 
or  some  hard  substance,  by  which  part  of  the  corner  was 
knocked  off,  leaving  the  swage  widest  below  the  cutting 
point.  In  fact,  it  bulges  out  in  such  a  manner  as  to  con- 
stantly rub  and  crowd  against  the  side  of  the  cut,  raking  the 
timber  and  leaving  bad  ridges  upon  it.  This  also  causes 
the  saw  to  be  crowded  out  of  line. 

Side  Dressed.  An  examination  of  cuts  "H"  and  "I" 
illustrating  a  tooth  properly  side-dressed  and  before  and 
after  striking  gravel,  will  show  that,  although  part  of  the 
clearance  has  been  removed,  there  is  yet  enough  left  to 
prevent  the  body  of  swage  from  rubbing.  This  demon- 
strates that  the  points  of  teeth  at  all  times  should  have 
ample  clearance,  so  that  nothing  but  the  extreme  point  can 
possibly  come  in  contact  with  the  wood.  On  the  other 
hand,  they  should  be  sufficiently  stout  so  as  not  to  crumble 
off  in  striking  a  hard  knot. 

This  cut  illustrates  some  forms  of  teeth  used  in  band, 
gang  and  band  re-saws.  Any  of  the  up-to-date  saw 
sharpeners  can  be  readily  adapted  to  produce  them. 

47 


Band  Re-Saws.  Factories  and  wood  working  shops 
use  small  band  saws  for  resawing  boards  or  plank,  and  these 
saws  require  the  same  treatment  as  large  band  saws  except 
in  cases  where  they  are  less  than  3  inches  in  width.  Then 
they  will  require  little  if  any  tension.  A  full  swage  should 
be  used  on  all  rip  saws,  but  saws  for  cross-cut  work  should 
be  spring  set.  Care  should  be  taken  to  spring  the  teeth 
very  close  to  the  point  and  keep  the  outside  corner  full 
and  sharp.  When  dressing,  bevel  a  little  to  the  outside. 

It  is  evident  that  the  band  resaw  is  a  saw  well  worth  the 
consideration  of  any  millman.  The  advantage  of  band 
resaws  in  saw  mills  result  from  the  fact  that  the  modern 
saw  mill  machinery  must  be  adapted  to  saw  lumber  to  the 
best  advantage.  Gangs  have  been  used  extensively,  but 
as  now  all  grades  of  logs  are  sawed  at  once  it  is  evident  that 
a  mode  of  sawing  which  would  be  suitable  for  one  would 
ruin  another.  The  log  band  saw  is  extensively  used  be- 
cause it  has  a  large  advantage  over  the  circular  saw  in  the 
saving  of  saw  kerf,  and  in  a  like  manner  the  band  resaw 
effects  a  saving  as  compared  to  all  other  methods.  For 
saw  mill  use  the  band  resaw  is  usually  placed  behind  the 
log  mill  or  between  it  and  the  edge,  and  as  the  large  mill 
saws  two  or  three  inch  planks,  the  resaw  converts  them  into 
inch  boards.  A  band  resaw  should  handle  the  stock  before 
it  is  edged,  so  that  in  sawing  stock  from  the  side  of  the  log 
each  board  may  be  edged  as  wide  as  possible.  Blades  as 
thin  as  20  to  24  gauge  are  being  used  on  resaw  mills  for  cer- 
tain kinds  of  work.  This  results  in  a  saving  of  power 
necessary  to  drive  the  saw.  High  temper  and  tough  steel 
is  necessary  in  band  resaws  and  skillful  workmanship  is 
essential  in  fitting  them.  Methods  for  fitting  log  bands 
saws  apply  in  general  to  the  resaw. 


Repairing  Cracks.  There  are  various  methods  used 
for  punching  band  saw  cracks  to  prevent  them  going 
through  the  saw,  but  one  plan  which  appears  to  be  used 
with  success  is  the  use  of  a  chisel  that  makes  a  straight  cut 
in  the  saw.  In  order  to  avoid  the  crystallized  steel,  which 
is  always  at  the  bottom  the  cut  or  punch  should  be  made 
about  -£2  inch  below  the  crack. 


Fig.  No.    13 

The  idea  is  to  form  a  new  front  edge  on  the  saw,  instead 
of  the  cracked  edge  (See  Fig.  13).  Naturally,  a  straight 
front  edge  will  hold  better  than  any  other  kind.  Grind  the 
little  chisel  straight  first,  then  round  the  corners  off  after- 
wards. The  incision  should  be  from  /i  to  3/£  inch  long. 
Be  sure  to  punch  through  from  both  sides,  to  separate  the 
crystallized  steel  and  the  crack  from  the  new  front  edge, 
then  finish  by  punching  lightly  from  the  outside,  to  make 
the  cut  show  clear.  Then  treat  this  new  edge  the  same  as 
the  bottom  of  the  throats  on  all  the  rest  of  the  front  edge  of 
the  saw. 


Fig.  No.   14 

Cracks   in   band   resaws   may   be   prevented   to   a  great 
extent   by   compressing  the   steel   at   the   bottom   of  each 

49 


throat,  all  the  way  around  the  saw,  with  the  sharp  clamp 
screws  of  a  large  band  or  circular  swage.  Remove  the  die 
and  anvil  and  fit  a  suitably-shaped  piece  of  steel  into  the 
slot  of  the  swage  block,  to  cause  the  clamp  screws  to  strike 
every  throat,  as  shown  in  Fig.  14.  Now  go  all  around  the 
saw,  compressing  the  steel  enough  to  take  out  some  of  the 
tension,  then  retension  and  readjust  the  back  of  the  saw. 
You  will  find  this  will  make  a  saw  hold  tension  much  better 
and  there  will  be  very  few  cracks,  unless  there  is  something 
seriously  wrong  in  the  conditions  the  saw  has  to  contend 
with. 

When  half  of  the  compressed  spot  has  been  ground  away, 
repeat  the  operation  again,  otherwise  the  saw  may  start 
losing  tension  too  fast  again,  and  crack.  With  this  method 
the  filer  can  carry  the  tension  closer  to  the  front  edge,  more 
tension,  and  more  crown  on  the  back,  if  desired,  without 
cracks. 

When  the  tension  is  down  in  a  saw  it  is  always  well  to 
compress  the  throats  before  tensioning.  It  stands  to 
reason  that  if  the  strain  is  relieved  on  the  extreme  front 
edge  the  steel  is  better  able  to  stand  it  a  little  farther  back. 
Some  have  tried  to  do  this  work  by  striking  the  bottom  of 
each  gullet  with  a  hammer,  but  failed  because  the  semi- 
circular grooves  pressed  into  the  steel  by  the  sharp  clamp 
screws  are. essential  to  success. 

A  small  resaw  swage  is  entirely  too  weak.  A  large  swage 
or  a  specially  constructed  tool,  must  be  used.  The  rings 
at  tfye  ends  of  the  screws  should  be  nearly  sharp,  to  make  a 
good  impression.  Work  the  live  screw  on  the  outside  of 
the  saw,  oiling  the  saw  first.  A  saw  is  not  so  apt  to  crack 
from  case-hardening  in  the  throats  while  the  half  rings  are 
there.  Old  cracks  are  also  held  much  better  by  this  com- 
pression method. 


CHAPTER  XI 

Safety  First  with  Small  Band  Saws 

Kinking.  Accidents  most  common  on  band  saws  are 
those  resulting  where  the  stock  is  not  securely  held,  with  a 
consequent  kinking  and  breaking  of  the  saw.  Severe 
injury  often  results  from  accidents  brought  about  by  the 
operator  trying  to  remove  waste  pieces  near  the  saw  with 
the  hand,  or  attempting  to  stop  the  wheel  with  hand,  foot 
or  stick  when  the  power  is  shut  off;  attempting  to  adjust  the 
gauge  when  the  saw  is  running  or  the  band  flying  off  unpro- 
tected wheels  in  case  of  breakage.  Other  accidents  are  due 
to  workmen's  clothing  becoming  caught  in  the  spokes  or  on 
the  band  of  an  unprotected  wheel.  Accidents  are  frequent 
through  the  carelessness  of  the  operator  getting  his  hand 
against  the  saw  at  the  rear  of  the  table,  or  sometimes  get- 
ting the  hands  and  head  above  the  portion  of  the  saw  over 
the  gauge. 

Prevention.  Safety  engineers  agree  that  practically 
all  of  these  accidents  can  be  prevented  by  enclosing  the 
upper  and  lower  wheels  with  either  a  wire  mesh  guard  or  a 
solid  enclosure;  also  the  cutting  edge  of  the  saw  above  the 
table  at  the  rear,  as  well  as  that  part  above  the  guide. 
Guards  should  be  provided  for  every  kind  of  saw  in  the 
mill,  as  well  as  belting,  gearing,  set  screws,  shafting  and 
drums.  A  blower  system  for  the  removal  of  dust  and 
odors  from  the  mill  should  be  provided  and  emery  wheels 
and  tool  grinders  should  be  protected  by  guards.  Auto- 
matic shifters  for  throwing  belts  on  and  off  are  also 
safety  devices  which  should  be  considered. 

Danger.  Any  saw  regardless  of  size  is  dangerous. 
The  numerous  small  saws  of  different  kinds  used  in  the 
average  woodworking  plant  are  often  a  greater  menace  than 
are  the  larger  saws  in  the  mills.  Every  precaution  possible 


should  be  taken  by  the  operator  of  small  saws  to  prevent 
injury  to  the  careless  or  reckless,  of  whom  there  are  many 
in  factories  and  mills  of  all  kinds.  In  many  states  factory 
inspection  laws  require  certain  safeguards  on  woodworking 
appliances. 


SIMONDS 
Saw  Steel  Products 

It  will  be  of  interest  to  know  that  we  manufacture  a 
complete  line  of — 

Wide  Band  Saws 

Narrow  Band  Saws 

Circular  Saws 

Inserted  Tooth  Saws 

Gang  Saws 

Drag  Saws 

Metal  Cutting  Cold  Saws 

Hack  Saw  Blades 

Files 

Cross-Cut  Saws 

Hand  Saws 

Planer  Knives 

High  Speed  Steel  Knives 

Flat  Steel  Special  Plates 

Details  regarding  any  of  the  above  or  our  complete 
catalog  sent  free  on  request  to  any  of  our  offices — see 
addresses  on  page  64. 


53 


Styles  of  Teeth  in  Wide  Band  Saws 


On  the  three  following  pages  are  shown  our  standard  shapes  of  teeth  for  Wide 
Band  Saws,  and  the  table  below  shows  the  die  numbers  which  we  use  for  saws  of 
different  widths  and  gauges. 


Width 

Gauge 

Distance  from  Point  to  Point  of  Teeth. 

%.3/4.T/8 

1  in. 

J*/4  in. 

lV2in. 

!3/4in. 

2in. 

2V4in. 

2^  in. 

2%  in. 

3  in. 

3%  in. 

2 
11 

3 

f 
4i 

5 
5§ 
6 

6 

7 
7 

8 
8 
9 

9 
9 
10 

10 
11 
11 

12 
12 
13 

14 
15 
16 

17 

18 

18-21 
18-21 
18-21 

18-21 
17-21 
17-21 

17-21 
17-21 
17-21 

17-18 
17-18 
16 

15 
16 
17-18 

14-15 
16-17 
14-15 

16-17 
14-15 
16 

13-14 
15-10 
12-14 

12-14 
12-13 
12-13 

12-13 
12-13 

2 

2 
2 

2 

*13or  16 
*13  or  16 
*13  or  16 

*13  or  16 

*13  or  16 
*13  or  16 
*13  or  16 

*13  or  16 
*13  or  16 
*13  or  16 

*13  or  16 
*13  or  16 
*13  or  16 

16 
16 
15 

15 
15 
15 

15 
15 
15 

15 
15 
15 

15 
15 

48 

48 
48 

47 

48 
48 
48 

48 
48 
48 

48 
48 
48 

48 

15 
15 

15 
15 
15 

15 
15 

47 

49 

47 

47 

49 
47 
49 

47 

49 

47 

49 
49 
49 

49 

50 
50 

50 
50 

50 

50 
50 

50 
50 
50 

50 
50 

50 

50 
50 

50 
50 
50 

50 
50 

55 
55 

55 
55 
55 

55 
55 

57 
57 

57 
57 

61 

61 

61 
61 

60 
60 

60 
60 

*Die  No.  IS  is  for  Spring  Set  and  Die  No.  16  is  for  Swage  Set. 
54 


Simonds  Band  Saws 

The  illustrations  herewith  show  spacing  and  depth  of  teeth,  also  patterns  or  die  numbers 
commonly  used.  When  ordering  please  refer  to  style  tooth  wanted. 


Simonds  Band  Saws 

The  illustrations  herewith  show  spacing  and  depth  of  teeth,  also  patterns  or  die  numbers 
commonly  used.   When  ordering  please  refer  to  style  tooth  wanted. 


Simonds  Band  Saws 


The  illustrations  herewith  show  spacing  and  depth  of  teeth,  also  patterns  or  die  numbers 
commonly  used.   When  ordering  please  refer  to  style  tooth  wanted. 


Wide  Band  Saws 


r 


.  ,. 

THE  5IMONDS    BAND 


J 

•v-svNXi  rr;  f  i-r-r-fM^MM-  'f-^-f^mm^^^^^  ?•    -  ->-•  •        / 
WARRANTED  UN? 


AND  FITTED 


Width 

Usual  Gauge 

Price  per  Foot 

2    incli 

18  to  20 

$1.00 

2*     " 

18  to  20 

1.20 

3 

18  to  20 

1.40 

Si     " 

18  to  20 

1.60 

4 

17  to  19 

2.00 

*i     " 

17  to  19 

2.20 

5       " 

17  to  19 

2.40 

*i    " 

17  to  19 

2.70 

6 

17  to  19 

3.00 

7      " 

16  to  18           . 

3.40 

8       " 

14  to  16 

3.80 

9       " 

14  to  16 

4.30 

10       " 

14  to  16 

4.80 

11 

14  to  16 

5.40 

12       " 

13  to  15 

6.00 

13       " 

13  to  15 

7.20 

14       " 

13  to  15 

8.40 

15 

12  to  14 

10.20 

16       " 

12  to  14 

12.00 

17       " 

12  to  14 

16.80 

18       " 

12  to  14 

21.60 

Saws  of  odd  widths,  not  listed,  take  price  of  next  wider  size  listed. 

For  saws  of  heavier  gauge  than'  listed  add  5  per  cent  to  list  for  each  gauge 
heavier. 

No  extra  charge  for  saws  one  or  two  gauges  thinner  than  list;  when  more  than 
two  gauges  thinner,  add  5  per  cent  to  list  for  each  gauge. 

Double  Edge  Band  Saws.  List  price  per  foot,  all  widths,  advance  10  per 
cent  over  list  prices  of  single  edge  saws  as  above. 

Toothed  Blanks.    Same  price  as  finished  saws. 

Band  Saw  Blanks.  Bright,  of  any  width,  furnished  to  order,  but  not 
warranted. 

58 


Simonds  Narrow  Band  Saws 


SPECIAL  NOTICE.— Narrow  Band  Saws  are  furnished  Set  and  Filed, 
but  not  Brazed. 


Width,  Inches 

Usual  Gauge 

Number  of  Teeth  to  Inch 

Price  per  Foot 

t 
1 

22  or  23 
21  or  22 
21  or  22 

Cor  7 
6 
5orC 

$0.13 
.13 
.13 

1 

1 

21  or  22 
21  or  22 
20  or  21 

4  or  5 
3J  or  4 
3-3  J  or  4 

.14 
.15 

.16 

! 

i 

20  or  21 
20  or  21 
20  or  21 

2£  or  3 
5"  or  1"  pt.  to  pt. 

.18 
.20 
.22 

li 

H 

it 

19  or  20 
19  or  20 
19  or  20 

\"  cr  \"  pt.  to  pt. 
i"  I"  or  f  "  pt.  to  pt. 
5"  |"  or  |"  pt.  to  pt. 

.24 

.26 
.28 

li 
13 

19  or  20 
19  or  20 

1"  or  li"  pt.  to  pt. 
l"or  H"pt.  topt. 

.38 

Above  prices  cover  Saws  Set  and  Filed  but  not  Brazed. 
If  not  Filed  and  Set,  deduct  4  cents  per  foot. 

,  . 

Brazing  —  K  to  Yi  in.,  50  cents  each;  %  to  J^  in.,  60  cents;  1  to  lj<  in..  70  cents;  1%  to 
in. .80  cents. 


59 


Brazing  Lamp 


A  popular  lamp  with  saw  fitters.  Produces  a  hot 
pointed  flame.  Excellent  for  brazing  and  other  work  for 
which  a  common  blow  torch  is  used. 

Band  Saw  Brazing  Clamp  and  Tongs 

This  design  of  Clamp  and  Tongs  is  generally  used  on 
narrow  band  saw  work. 


Saw  Makers'  Tools 

Anvil,  Hammers  and  Straight  Edges 


Circular  and  Band  Saw  Anvils  made  with  cast  steel 
face,  hardened  and  polished.  Saw  Makers'  Hammers  of 
fine  steel.  Straight  Edges  of  popular  design. 


Saw  Swages 


Simonds  Swages  are  correctly  constructed  and  used 
extensively.  They  are  designed  for  shaping  the  point  of 
the  tooth,  squaring  up  the  cutting  edge,  and  giving  body 
to  the  swage  point.  Prices  furnished  on  request. 


61 


Simonds  Blue  Ribbon  Hand  Saws 


Highest 
Quality  and 
Finish  of 
Blade 
and 
Handle 


Accurately  Ground 
and  Tapered 
made  of  Simonds 
edge-holding  steel 


Ask  your  Hardware  Dealer 

62 


Simonds  Hack  Saws 


HARD  EDGE 


Simonds  Hard  Edge  Hack  Saw  Blades  are  the  most 
economical  because  they  cut  fast,  remove  less  metal  and 
outwear  other  makes.  When  properly  used  they  do  not 
break.  The  steel  in  these  blades  is  toughened  by  a  special 
Simonds  process. 


Simonds  Files 


These  are  high  grade  files  for  use  around  the  mill. 
They  are  subjected  to  rigid  tests.  The  Simonds  Cross- 
cut File  is  especially  designed  for  filing  cross-cut  saws. 


Simonds  Manufacturing  Company 

Fitchburg,  Mass. 

17th  Street  and  Western  Avenue  90  West  Broadway 

Chicago,  111.  New  York  City 

402  Occidental  Avenue  85  First  Street 

Seattle,  Wash.  Portland,  Oregon 

239  Court  Avenue 
Memphis,  Tenn. 

420  Canal  Street  12-14  Natoma  Street 

New  Orleans,  La.  San  Francisco,  California 

Simonds  Canada  Saw  Company,  Ltd. 

554  Beatty  Street  55  Water  Street 

Vancouver,  B.  C.  St  John,  N.  B. 

St.  Remi  Street  and  Acorn  Avenue 
Montreal,  Quebec 

Simonds  Saws,  Ltd. 

53A  Bayham  Street,  Camden  Town 
London,  N.  W.,  England 

Simonds  File  Company 

Fitchburg,  Mass. 

Simonds  Steel  Mill 

Lockport,  N.  Y. 


PRINTED   IN    THE   U    S.  A 


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MAY    12  1934 


MAY  1 3  1984 


MAY  14  1094 


S|P  28  'I  S31 


APR  .41B5UI) 


R£C.CIR.«I62  2 'flft 


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UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


